Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Am I crazy, or is it possible ...


I have decided I'm not going to go gently into that good night.

I want to learn to surf. I want to get a board, head for the beach and learn how to ride a wave.

Editor's note: Mike, you're an idiot. You're almost 60 years old. You can't learn to surf.

Why not?

I can swim, I'm strong enough to carry a board and I've got enough endurance to work out for an hour at a time. Why can't I learn to surf?

Heck, if a penguin can do it ...



Seriously, from the first time I ever heard "Surfin' Safari" in the summer of 1962 on high-flying WING radio in Dayton, Ohio, I dreamed of going to California and trying it myself.

Of course, at 12 I wasn't going anywhere, and other than 10 days in the state in the summer of '78, I didn't make it back until I was 40 years old. I could have tried it in the summers of '90, '91 or '92, but for some reason it never crossed my mind.

Maybe it was just that I didn't have the kind of car you could strap a board to the top of, or maybe I was at a point in my life when I thought I was past all that. Then I became a family man and didn't think of it at all.

But it can't be that difficult.

You paddle out, turn around and raise ...

Isn't that all there is to the coastline craze?

allvoices

3 comments:

Anonymous said...

Surf's up ...dude.

Yeah, I can see it.

Might want to shed a few pounds first, though.

My best friend has surfed his whole life and he just blew out a kneee in Huntington Beach because he had put on a few pounds.

Still, why not?

Go for it.

You're still way too young to start thinking about the rocking chair on the porch.

RANDY

Pauline said...

I think it's a great idea... and great surfing in Indonesia!! Have fun out there. I can't wait to hear about your adventures!

Anonymous said...

I agree.

You're never too old.

Go fer it, dude..

I'll be the dude on the board to your left.

It's a blue fastback two fin short board ... and I'll be at my normal haunt in Malibu.

Jeff, in Pomona